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Quando il cibo annulla le distanze: l’esperienza dello chef Marco Smerilli a Concordia

Quando i giorni cominciano a trascorrere e la fine della missione è ancora lontana, sedersi a tavola e mangiare pietanze dal sapore conosciuto aiuta a ridurre la distanza da casa e a sentirsi meno soli.

Un’esperienza unica e difficile quella che stanno affrontando i 13 winterover, il gruppo di tecnici e ricercatori che vivono e lavorano sul plateau antartico per mantenere operativa la stazione italo-francese Concordia anche durante la stagione invernale, da marzo a novembre, quando le condizioni climatiche proibitive la isolano dal resto del mondo.

Il buio pressoché totale che caratterizza l’inverno antartico, l’altitudine e le temperature che possono scendere fin sotto i -80°C, il dover uscire nonostante tutto per portare avanti l’indispensabile lavoro, avvolti in  un abbigliamento protettivo spesso ingombrante e con il rischio di dover fronteggiare condizioni climatiche e scarsa visibilità, rendono ancora più importanti i momenti conviviali passati insieme.

La consapevolezza di vivere una situazione dove l’emergenza è sempre in agguato richiede competenze che vanno oltre quelle specialistiche richieste. E’ necessario, infatti, anche un forte spirito di adattamento e soprattutto un forte senso di appartenenza al gruppo.

Quest’anno, a trascorrere l’inverno a Concordia sono rimasti sei italiani, sei francesi e un medico di origini svedesi dell’ESA. Tutte persone che hanno superato una rigida selezione e che hanno partecipato a corsi sulla sicurezza e sopravvivenza in ambienti estremi, ma anche alle non meno importanti attività di team building, per facilitare la conoscenza e promuovere uno spirito di collaborazione, sostegno e fiducia reciproca.

Ed ecco che anche il momento del pasto assume un significato simbolico. Diventa scambio culturale, momento di aggregazione e di condivisione e soprattutto un momento in cui, anche se fisicamente molto distanti, ci si sente un po’ più vicini a casa. Ecco che pertanto la figura dello chef e cuoco, riveste in questo ambiente un’importanza centrale per la coesione dell’intera squadra. Quest’anno in spedizione abbiamo Marco Smerilli, marchigiano di origine e milanese di adozione, con esperienza pluriennale nel settore ristoro. Ha lavorato per pizzerie, bistrot e ristoranti “stellati” in Italia e all’estero, spostandosi tra Europa, Stati Uniti e Australia, ed è alla sua seconda esperienza in Antartide. Vista l’esperienza internazionale, Marco riesce a propone piatti della cucina francese e italiana, adattandoli per rispondere al meglio alle diverse tradizioni regionali dei commensali, un aspetto molto importante in una stazione dalla vocazione internazionale. E in occasione delle festività prepara un menù sempre speciale: a Pasqua ad esempio ha previsto coscione d’agnello ripieno come da tradizione francese e cappelletti fatti a mano in brodo per soddisfare il gusto degli italiani. Naturalmente non è mancato l’uovo di cioccolata e un buon vino per accompagnare le portate.

– Chiediamo a lui di raccontarci come organizza e gestisce questi momenti così importanti:

Anche io penso che una buona pietanza possa contribuire ad alleviare le difficolta del vivere e lavorare in Antartide, e mi impegno quotidianamente per soddisfare le diverse esigenze.

Come potete immaginare, qui per la maggior parte dell’anno non abbiamo cibo fresco. Frutta e verdura freschi arrivano all’inizio dell’estate, a novembre, insieme agli spedizionieri estivi, e purtroppo non durano molto. Tutti gli alimenti sono conservati congelati in celle frigorifere, ma la varietà è molta.

Qui non abbiamo un menù settimanale fisso, – ci racconta Marco –  io improvviso oppure cucino qualcosa su richiesta. Durante il pomeriggio faccio un giro nelle celle frigo e mi faccio venire un’ispirazione. Tiro fuori qualcosa e lo metto a scongelare, così il giorno successivo è pronto per essere cucinato. Naturalmente cerco di bilanciare i bisogni nutrizionali e di soddisfare qualche richiesta particolare. La mia cucina è abbastanza proteica di giorno, preparo piatti a base di pasta, riso e cous cous con legumi, carne e verdure, in quanto i compagni escono a lavorare mattina e pomeriggio e consumano tanta energia per fronteggiare il freddo. Mentre la sera cucino un po’ più leggero con pesce, verdure e zuppe. I dolci li preparo soltanto un paio di volte a settimana, per non esagerare, ma quelli per la colazione ci sono sempre.

– Marco, raccontaci come scandisci la tua giornata:

La mia giornata inizia alle 7.00 di mattina perché mi piace fare colazione con calma. Poi, se è la giornata che devo preparare il pane inizio ad impastare, altrimenti entro in cucina alle 8.00 e avvio la preparazione del pranzo e spesso imposto anche la cena.

Io sono il solo cuoco a Concordia, – continua Marco Smerilli – ma durante la settimana ho un mio giorno libero, che è la domenica. Domenica è il giorno in cui mi riposo e alcuni dei compagni si dilettano in cucina al mio posto. Preparano piatti della loro tradizione familiare, come a sfidarsi un po’ a chi cucina meglio. Alcune volte, invece, lascio io qualcosa di pronto che preparo il sabato, come una lasagna o un arrosto.

Il pasto, in effetti, – continua a raccontarci Marco Smerilli – è un importante momento di aggregazione e condivisione. Cerchiamo di mangiare tutti alla stessa ora e parliamo del lavoro svolto e raccontiamo qualche aneddoto per sorridere un po’. A turno i miei compagni apparecchiano e sparecchiano il tavolo e lavano i piatti. Mi aiutano anche a sistemare la cucina, così è tutto a posto in pochissimo tempo.

– Durante le feste cosa succede? Sappiamo che le feste sono i momenti in cui ci si sente più lontani da casa, cosa fate a Concordia?

Cerchiamo di onorarle tutte, anche a tavola. Siano della tradizione religiosa, di quella nazionale o per i compleanni. Adesso con la rete internet le distanze sono diminuite. Anche se a volte la linea è disturbata, riusciamo a parlare e soprattutto a vederci con le nostre famiglie e gli amici. Ma le festività sono sempre un momento che cerchiamo di esorcizzare. Io in cucina ho un occhio di riguardo, in queste occasioni preparo sempre qualcosa di più elaborato rispetto a tutti i giorni, ma di solito anche il sabato o almeno una volta a settimana cerco di fare qualcosa di sfizioso. Ad esempio la settimana scorsa ho organizzato una cena di solidarietà per l’Ucraina e ho preparato tre piatti ucraini e un dolce russo a dimostrare la possibile convivenza in armonia. Ho preparato il borsch, il petto di pollo alla Kiev e le frittelle di patate, e come dolce la torta Napoleone, che è un dolce russo. E ieri ho cucinato un petto di quaglia farcito con riso in cagnone, accompagnata da spinaci al burro, uvetta e pinoli, e la coscia fatta a modo di chupa chups impanata e fritta, accompagnata con salsa au jus. L’altra settimana invece ho fatto la pizza carbonara, con grande soddisfazione degli italiani, e dolci della tradizione francese per andare incontro anche ai loro gusti, e così via un giorno dopo l’altro……

– Sappiamo che durante la campagna estiva, da novembre a marzo, la stazione arriva ad ospitare fino a 80 persone e che per far fronte alla mole
di 
 lavoro sono necessari due cuochi. Chi ti ha affiancato quest’anno?

Quest’anno ho lavorato insieme a Luca Ficara, anche lui uno chef esperto ed ex invernante a Concordia. In effetti durante il winterover nella stazione è sufficiente la presenza di un solo cuoco perché ci sono soltanto 13 persone, mentre durante la campagna estiva, da novembre a marzo, la stazione può ospitare fino a 80 persone, e per far fronte alla mole di lavoro sono necessari due cuochi. Luca ha poi lasciato la stazione a inizio febbraio, insieme agli spedizionieri estivi, mentre io andrò via il prossimo novembre, quando arriverà il nuovo gruppo a sostituirci.

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