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16
Feb
2021
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LA TRAVERSA DA CAP PRUD HOMME A DOME C: IL RACCONTO DI UNO DEI PROTAGONISTI

Raoul Nascimben, Sergente Maggiore Capo Qualifica Speciale dell’Esercito Italiano, in forza al 4° Reggimento Alpini Paracadutisti

Conclusa con successo anche l’ultima traversa in programma per la campagna 2020-2021, chiediamo a uno dei partecipanti italiani, Raoul Nascimben, Sergente Maggiore Capo Qualifica Speciale dell’Esercito Italiano, in forza al 4° Reggimento Alpini Paracadutisti, di condividere con noi la sua esperienza, e di raccontarci il viaggio tra i ghiacci del plateau antartico che si compie ogni anno per rifornire la stazione italo-francese Concordia.

D.: Sappiamo che ha appena terminato la sua quattordicesima traversa. 14 traverse in 7 spedizioni: Ha percorso più di 30000 km e vissuto sul plateau antartico per oltre 300 giorni.
Numeri importanti. Possiamo considerarla un veterano, il protagonista di un’avventura che pochi hanno il privilegio di compiere. Ci racconti cosa si prova a vivere sul plateau antartico per così tanto tempo.

R.: “Cosa dire: Selvaggio, massacrante, psicologicamente difficile ma assolutamente affascinante.
Ogni metro, ogni istante è qualcosa di unico, emozionante, per cui non posso che ringraziare il P.N.R.A. e lo Stato Maggiore della Difesa per avermi consentito di poter vivere queste esperienze, conoscere l’eccellenza della ricerca antartica ed essere utile in questo contesto a queste latitudini.

Vivere il plateau antartico sul raid è un’esperienza impegnativa, ma unica. Oltre mille e duecento  lunghissimi chilometri, in oltre 10 giorni di viaggio su un percorso non battuto e isolato, affrontando condizioni atmosferiche non sempre favorevoli e temperature che possono scendere anche sotto i – 40°c.
Ricordo che in una delle traverse più difficili, nel febbraio 2013, al ritorno della terza ed ultima traversa di quella spedizione, la temperatura scese oltre i – 50°. Ma nonostante le difficoltà, ci sentiamo investiti di una grande responsabilità, abbiamo una grande missione da compiere.

Concordia è una stazione importante. E’ aperta tutto l’anno ed è un punto di riferimento per la comunità scientifica internazionale. Ospita coloro che svolgono attività di ricerca a Dome C, un sito strategico soprattutto per gli studi sul clima. La stazione è stata costruita sul plateau antartico orientale, appunto a Dome C, un’altura a 3230 m slm, in una posizione isolata, distante circa 1200 km dalla costa e oltre 1000 km dalla stazione italiana Mario Zucchelli e dalla stazione francese Dumont D’urville. E la traversa, è l’unica via con cui è possibile rifornirla del materiale più ingombrante e pesante non trasportabile via aereo, come carburante, generi alimentari, apparecchiature scientifiche e il materiale necessario al funzionamento e alla manutenzione della stazione. Quest’anno per assicurare la consegna di tutto il materiale abbiamo ripetuto la traversa due volte.”

D.: Ma come si prepara una traversa?

R.: “La traversa è organizzata dall’istituto Polare Francese, ma nel team dei 8-10 partecipanti ci sono anche due italiani del Programma Nazionale di Ricerche in Antartide. Quest’anno, il PNRA ha inviato due rappresentanti dell’esercito Italiano. Uno sono io, Sergente Maggiore Capo qs Raoul Nascimben, e l’altro è il Caporal Maggiore Capo sc Mancuso Felice.

Per rendere minimi i rischi, le traverse si fanno durante l’estate australe, tra novembre e gennaio, in quanto la maggior parte del viaggio si fa sul plateau antartico: il punto di partenza si trova sul livello del mare, mentre l’arrivo è a 3200 m.

Noi italiani arriviamo in Antartide insieme ai colleghi che aprono la stazione Mario Zucchelli. Da lì, via aereo, raggiungiamo il punto di partenza della traversa, la piccola stazione Robert Guillard, a Cap Prud Homme, a 5 km dalla stazione francese Dumont D’Urville. A  Cap Prud Homme troviamo i mezzi che andremo a utilizzare e il materiale destinato a Concordia, arrivato in Antartide con la nave francese Astrolabe, nei pressi della stazione Dumont D’Urville.

Arrivati tutti i partecipanti, iniziano le operazioni preliminari: dopo aver aperto la base e i tunnel dove sono alloggiati i trattori ed i macchinari necessari alla traversa, si fa il controllo e la manutenzione dei mezzi e si carica il materiale.

A cap Prud Homme  – ci racconta ancora Raoul Nascimben –  non ci sono strutture coperte per fare la manutenzione dei trattori, lavoriamo a ridosso del mare, condividendo rispettosamente l’area con gli abitanti del posto: i pinguini Adeile, gli skua, i petrelli e gli albatros, e sullo sfondo lo spettacolo degli iceberg alla deriva…

Nel frattempo l’addetto ai sistemi di navigazione, che quest’anno è stato il francese Gauthier La Motte, monitora i primi 15 km di route con un radar del suolo, che raggiungendo una profondità di 30 mt consente di visualizzare eventuali crepacci presenti.

Poi, la carovana composta quest’anno da 6 trattori caterpillar, 2 apripista kassbohrer ed una ventina di rimorchi slitte, è pronta. Si parte……”

D.: Ci ha parlato dei mezzi, ma le persone? Chi prende parte a questa avventura?

R.: “Il team può essere composto da 8 a 10 unità, di cui uno è sempre il leader. Quest’anno il capo della squadra è stato Nicolas Segui, dell’istituto Polare Francese. Fanno sempre parte della squadra: un medico, che ha anche il compito di preparare i pasti, che sono già porzionati e congelati, due meccanici che pilotano i gatti delle nevi, di cui uno è il mezzo scout, che apre la route al convoglio, due addetti al pieno serbatoi, 2 o 3 meccanici piloti caterpillar e 2 meccanici rimorchi slitte.”

D.: E il viaggio? Quanto dura?

R.: “Per raggiungere Dome C si impiegano dai 10 ai 16 giorni. Mentre il viaggio di ritorno è più breve, per il fatto che si viaggia con meno carico: possono essere necessari dagli 8 ai 12 giorni.

La durata del viaggio dipende soprattutto dalle condizioni meteo che si incontrano e dagli eventuali problemi che si possono avere lungo il percorso. Nell’abitacolo siamo soli per tutta la giornata di navigazione, a tenerci compagnia la musica e qualche audiolibro… Le comunicazioni radio sono limitate ad eventuali problemi, ma soprattutto sono dettate dal leader che disciplina velocità e distanze tra i veicoli.”

D.: Siamo sempre più curiosi e affascinati. Ci descriva come sono organizzate le giornate.

R.: “Come sapete, le traverse sono fatte durante l’estate antartica, quando le temperature sono meno proibitive ed è praticamente sempre giorno. Noi però cerchiamo di mantenere il ritmo veglia-sonno scandendo così la nostra giornata:

6:30 – Sveglia, colazione, toilette e ci si prepara per uscire all’esterno.
La mattina è un vero e proprio rito. Ognuno di noi percepisce il freddo in modo diverso. Dobbiamo indossare calze, maglie e tute polari per il corpo, collari e maschere per proteggere collo e viso. Io sono sempre molto attento a scegliere gli equipaggiamenti: indosso una combinazione di diverso materiale tecnico in funzione dell’altitudine e porgo molta attenzione soprattutto agli occhiali, alle maschere ed ai guanti tecnici. Il materiale che il PNRA ci mette a disposizione è sempre tra i migliori.

6:45 – Accensione dei motori e controllo elettronico dei parametri, per avere i veicoli sempre al massimo dell’efficienza.

7:00 – Aggancio dei rimorchi.
Nel viaggio di andata i trattori trainano i convogli in coppia, un treno di rimorchi può arrivare a pesare anche oltre 180 tonnellate.

7:30 – Partenza
La partenza al mattino è uno dei momenti più delicati. I grandi sci delle slitte dei rimorchi tendono ad incollarsi al ghiaccio del suolo, talvolta sono necessari anche 45 minuti per far partire tutto il convoglio. Davanti lo scout apre la route segnando il percorso. Dietro seguiamo il tracciato, che visto dall’abitacolo sembra essere una linea infinita disegnata sul ghiaccio. Il viaggio riprende e, sebbene il convoglio sia composto da più veicoli, noi all’interno dell’abitacolo saremo soli per quasi tutta la giornata.

10:30 – Pausa tecnica, di circa 5 minuti.

13:30 – Pausa pranzo
Al pranzo dedichiamo circa un’ora. Ci raduniamo in cucina. In quella che noi chiamiamo la  “carovana vita”, un grosso camper formato da due moduli, il “modulo energia” che contiene il generatore di corrente, il generatore di calore, l’impianto che scioglie la neve per avere a disposizione acqua sanitaria, l’attrezzatura per le eventuali riparazioni, la toilette e lo spogliatoio; e il “modulo vita” , dove si trovano la postazione per le comunicazioni, con un sistema satellitare e GPS, una RADIO HF, VHF, la postazione medica, con farmaci di primo soccorso, l’area ristoro con cucina attrezzata e due piccolissime camere con due letti a castello ognuna, per ospitare 8 persone. Si dorme nei sacchi a pelo.

14:30 – Partenza

17:30 – Pausa tecnica

20:00 – Stop per la notte
Si sganciano i rimorchi lasciandoli lungo la route e si parcheggiano i veicoli vicini, in modo da poterli collegare agli impianti di riscaldamento ausiliari, per evitare che la temperatura si abbassi troppo nelle cabine, nei motori e nelle parti idrauliche a motore spento.

20:15 – Protocollo di controllo sui veicoli, rimorchi, e pieno serbatoio.
Il consumo medio di carburante è di circa 4000 litri al giorno.

21:15 – Cena
Ci raduniamo nella “carovana vita”. E il momento in cui tra noi si fa gruppo parlando del più e del meno, ridendo e scherzando, cercando di alleggerire il carico di lavoro della giornata … quasi dimenticandoci che siamo in mezzo al plateau antartico. …Il silenzio è rotto dal rumore del motore del gruppo elettrogeno e dal vento, e intorno a noi… i sastrugi, il ghiaccio , la neve ed un orizzonte che sembra infinito…

22:15 – Si lavano i piatti e toilette

23:00 – Letto
Otto di noi dormono nei letti a castello che si trovano nelle due camerette adiacenti alla cucina, nella “carovana vita”, mentre se sono necessari gli altri due posti letto sono in un altro modulo trainato dietro quello vita. Una volta a letto arriva il momento delle e-mail a casa e dei messaggi, che da quest’anno possiamo inviare anche tramite whatsapp.

6:30 – Di nuovo sveglia e si riparte per una nuova giornata.

A metà strada, a circa 500  km da Cap Prud  Homme  prepariamo una pista intermedia di rifornimento, che serve agli aerei in volo da e per Dumont Durville come scalo tecnico  se il carburante imbarcato  non fosse sufficiente. Battiamo la neve per 1,5 km e segnaliamo la pista piantando delle bandierine ai lati.  Nell’area “TAXI WAY” lasciamo alcuni fusti da 200 litri con il carburante, che resta a disposizione per l’eventuale rifornimento.  A volte, lungo il tragitto, può anche capitare di dover fare alcuni lavori di manutenzione ai dispositivi geofisici posizionati sui punti gps che segnalano la route”.

D.: Certo, un’avventura impegnativa e sicuramente non senza difficolta. Ma quali sono le incognite e i rischi a cui siete più esposti lungo il percorso?

R.: “Anche se i mezzi apripista riducono al minimo i rischi legati al viaggiare su strade non battute, le difficoltà sono sempre dietro l’angolo. Legate soprattutto alle condizioni atmosferiche avverse. Le basse temperature e tempeste di neve possono causare il “whiteout”, quel fenomeno che rende la visibilità scarsa o quasi nulla, a volte si ha la sensazione di avere un muro bianco davanti agli occhi. Il whiteout rallenta l’andatura, ma non ci blocca, perché per poter navigare durante le tempeste, tutti i veicoli hanno a bordo un sistema di navigazione gps marittimo, e alcuni veicoli sono stati dotati anche di un sistema di navigazione molto preciso e di un generatore di elettricità che alimenta un gruppo fari molto potente.

Anche i problemi meccanici rallentano l’andatura, ma grazie alla conoscenza dei veicoli ed protocollo di controlli pre, durante e post raid,  che facciamo sui veicoli, rimorchi e slitte, li abbiamo ridotti esponenzialmente.

Nel momento in cui si verifica un problema, l’expertise ci aiuta a comprendere immediatamente se la problematica è risolvibile o no. Se è risolvibile, abbiamo un magazzino ricambi al seguito, che ci consente di eseguire la riparazione in tempo reale. Se, invece, il guasto non è riparabile, abbiamo al seguito un sistema di slitte di soccorso per trainare il veicolo reso inefficiente.

Possono insorgere anche problemi di natura sanitaria. Il medico anestesista che accompagna la traversa ha al seguito tutto ciò che potrebbe servire per una rianimazione d’urgenza o per un primo soccorso. Per fortuna sono anni che non capita nulla di grave. Ma, se dovesse essere necessaria un’evacuazione lungo l’itinerario, viene richiesto l’intervento di un aereo e viene creata una pista per il suo atterraggio e decollo.

D.: Cosa succede poi, quando arrivate a Concordia?

R.: “La gioia di avvistare la stazione è immensa, dopo tanti giorni di vita trascorsi nella cabina di un automezzo, in mezzo al deserto antartico. Iniziamo ad avvistarla quando siamo a oltre 20 km di distanza, che per noi significa quasi due ore  di navigazione. È piccola… laggiù… sulla nostra destra davanti a noi.., ci avviciniamo lentamente, e se la visibilità lo consente, le due torri sono ben visibili.

Già da quella distanza iniziamo a sentire le comunicazioni radio del personale di Concordia. Non vediamo l’ora di arrivare.

Lungo l’ultimo tratto di route che ci porta alla stazione c’è un vero e proprio comitato di accoglienza.

I colleghi ci aspettano, ci vengono incontro, ci festeggiano come un corteo vittorioso e festante tra le vie di una città. Ma rispettosi del nostro arrivo non intralciano mai la nostra avanzata…. Ci accompagnano fino all’area prevista per il parcheggio, adiacente alla stazione. Siamo soddisfatti di aver raggiunto il nostro obbiettivo, l’emozione è fortissima.

Spenti i motori è il momento dei saluti, degli abbracci, felici di poter ritrovare i nostri amici ed i connazionali. Finalmente possiamo fermarci un attimo, soprattutto per chiamare casa. La prima telefonata va a mia moglie Marisa e le mie figlie Chiara e Giada. E… in base ci aspetta un buon piatto di tortellini in brodo preparato da Francesco o, come quest’anno dal buon Simone.

Poi di nuovo tutti al lavoro. Bisogna scaricare i materiali, caricare quelli da riportare indietro e fare la manutenzione ai veicoli e alle slitte.

E la sera, tutti insieme a scambiare due chiacchere… siamo esausti ma ci godiamo questo momento.

Comunque, i giorni di riposo sono pochi. Dopo 2 o 3 giorni siamo pronti a ripartire, portando al nostro seguito un carico di rifiuti che in gran parte rientreranno in Europa, il resto in Australia. Sono per lo più scarti delle lavorazioni: vetro, metalli, gli scarti dell’osmosi e gli scarti alimentari.

Partiamo in direzione Cap Prud Homme consapevoli che la traversa ancora non è terminata. Incognite permettendo, fra circa 10 giorni rivedremo la costa di ghiaccio, il mare, la banchisa, gli iceberg e i pinguini. Il nostro leader ci indica per radio marcia e velocità da tenere. Lasciamo Concordia alle spalle, i nostri amici, le nostre storie e i ricordi che ci terranno compagnia durante il viaggio di ritorno…”

Ringraziamo il Sergente Maggiore Raoul Nascimben per questo emozionante racconto,  e riportiamo di seguito una pagina tratta dal suo diario di viaggio.

 


Tratto dal diario di viaggio di Raoul Nascimben

Martedì 15 dicembre 2020..(rientro prima traversa) 

“Sono l’ultimo del convoglio
Tra lo scout che apre la route e me ci sono alcuni chilometri
Seguo le tracce di chi mi precede

Oggi ci siamo svegliati con il vento forte da Nord-Est
La temperatura è scesa di nuovo sotto i -30°C
Sebbene ci sia il sole, anche le attività più semplici diventano difficili…
Le mani, che ormai portano i segni della spedizione, all’esterno, pur protette dai guanti, fanno male
Le labbra si screpolano … Sotto le maschere ed i collari tecnici

All’interno dei veicoli siamo soli
La sera prima scelgo ciò che ascolterò nelle 12 ore di navigazione…

Siamo partiti da un ora….
Il gps indica che ci mancano 240 chilometri a Cap Prud Homme.questo tratto che stiamo percorrendo è il più duro per la presenza di molti sastrugi.
Athoine, in francese, avverte felice di fare attenzione ad un rallentamento…io traduco

Per contrastare l’irregolarità della route, all’interno del abitacolo, cerco l’equilibrio tenendomi al volante, spingendo con le gambe, talvolta alzandomi mantenendo sempre una posizione pressoché perpendicolare al terreno…
In pratica “danziamo” per la maggior parte della giornata

Intanto lo spettacolo che osservo all’esterno mi fa tornare alla Mente Jm Jarre e le sue colonne sonore…
Il forte vento accarezza i grandi sastrugi sollevando delicatamente un pulviscolo delicato

Rimango un attimo staccato dal resto del convoglio…
La via irregolare davanti a me sembra coperta da un soffice manto setoso….”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Il gatto delle nevi che apre la route al convoglio

 

La “carovana vita”, il camper dove si mangia e si dorme

 

La carovana

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